The Large Volume Design Notch-Lapel Coat-1 by Geoffrey B. Small
Wearing Silence
An extended conversation with T.O. Kochi on the Large volume design notch-lapel coat by Geoffrey B. Small
Introduction
At dawn, the world does not shout its arrival.
It appears in quiet gradations of light and shadow, in silence that holds depth rather than noise.
Clothing of true beauty follows the same principle.
It does not dazzle for attention—it endures, whispering of craft, history, and human intention.
This is the spirit behind Geoffrey B. Small’s large volume design notch-lapel coat, a piece that carries within it not just fabric, but culture. To wear it is to enter a dialogue: between handwoven threads and the body, between the past and the present, between silence and presence.
In this conversation, we speak with T.O. Kochi about what it means to live with such a garment—one that moves beyond fashion into the realm of quiet art.
Quiet Beauty
Interviewer
When I first saw this coat, what struck me was its quiet presence. It does not declare itself with logos or spectacle. Instead, it radiates a deeper calm. How would you describe it?
T.O
True beauty never raises its voice. This coat is not made to “show,” but to “resonate.” When you put it on, it doesn’t change who you are—it deepens your presence. It is meant to live with you, quietly elevating the rhythms of everyday life.
Fabric as Living Art
Interviewer
The fabric feels astonishingly soft—almost as if it holds air within it. It doesn’t seem like ordinary cotton. What makes it so special?
T.O
It is woven at Tessitura La Colombina, a family atelier in Treviso, northern Italy. They have been working on 18th-century wooden looms for generations, keeping alive the philosophy that fabric itself can be art.
Here, the weft threads are intentionally allowed to rise to the surface, creating a subtle texture impossible to achieve with industrial machines. The result is fabric that seems to capture shadows within it—light and dark woven together. It feels soft to the touch, yet visually full of depth. This is the quiet elegance that only handweaving can create.
A Colour that Breathes
Interviewer
The colour is difficult to pin down—sometimes indigo, sometimes lavender. How was this achieved?
T.O
It was dyed in Geoffrey’s own atelier, where modern equipment and the precision of the human hand work side by side. That’s why the colour cannot be reduced to a single tone—it shifts with the light and with the hour, becoming a shade that breathes.
And the process respects the earth. Every drop of wastewater from the dyeing is decomposed in-house and collected by certified specialists. Other brands might build entire campaigns around such sustainability. Geoffrey rarely speaks of it. For him, the only purpose is to create garments that are truly beautiful.
The Silhouette — Quiet Architecture
Interviewer
The silhouette has a presence that feels both strong and soft. How do you see its design?
T.O
It holds generous volume, yet never appears heavy. The cocoon silhouette embraces the body gently, moving with natural grace. It is architectural, but not rigid.
The shoulders are cut in a relaxed raglan line, with generously sized armholes. This makes it remarkably easy and comfortable to wear—whether over a fine knit or something with more substance. But it is not simply oversized. The pattern is calculated with precision so that freedom and elegance coexist.
Length and Universality
Interviewer
The length seems to change character depending on the wearer. How is it balanced?
T.O
On someone around 160 cm tall, it falls just below the knees. For those 175–180 cm and taller, it sits above the knees. But the key is that wherever the hem falls, the coat always moves with elegance.
We have seen the very same size chosen by a petite woman in her seventies and by a muscular man in his forties over 180 cm tall. Different generations, different builds—yet the silhouette adapts, finding its natural harmony. That universality is the strength of this design.
Buttons with a Legacy
Interviewer
One detail that caught my attention was the buttons. Where do they come from?
T.O
They are thick horn buttons from Fontana, a historic button maker in Parma. Since the late 19th century, Fontana has continued to craft buttons from natural materials even as most of the industry shifted to synthetics.
For this coat, we chose substantial horn. Its natural depth of tone and quiet lustre hold their own against the volume of the cocoon silhouette, ensuring the garment never feels diminished. At the same time, their thickness makes them easy to fasten—functional as well as beautiful.
A button may seem small, but here it carries heritage, culture, and nature’s strength within it. It is the kind of detail that transforms clothing into something more enduring.
Specifications
- Style: CVC04 special unlined
- Fabric: Tessitura La Colombina — 98% cotton, 2% polyamide
- Colour: Hand-dyed pale violet navy (dyed at Geoffrey B. Small atelier; wastewater fully treated and collected)
- Silhouette: Cocoon shape with raglan shoulders and generous armholes
- Details: Thick horn buttons by Fontana, Parma; hand-stitched silk buttonholes
- Unlined: for extended seasonal wear
- Model: 160 cm / wearing size UN
Closing Reflections
To wear this piece is to step into a continuum of craft and culture, where silence is not absence but depth. The large volume design notch-lapel coat carries forward the idea that fashion, at its most profound, is less about appearance than about presence. It reminds us that beauty can be lived, not shown.
And perhaps this is its quiet gift: every time it rests on your shoulders, it invites you to move more slowly, to notice more deeply, and to let beauty become part of your everyday rhythm.